And so, the excursion continues, from Saint-Émilion to Saumur.
After three nights in Saint-Émilion, we set off on the next chapter of our French excursion – we headed north toward Saumur on the River Loire. The drive was relatively straight-forward and we arrived in the late afternoon at our home for the next four nights – plenty of time to get the campsite set up and stroll into town for a bite to eat.
The campsite here had also been recommended by our friends and acquaintances at one of the many Camping and Motorhoming groups on Facebook we look at. Although there were still loads of child-friendly and family-focused facilities, we didn’t have the same sense of dread we had felt during our approach to the Saint-Émilion campsite. The site was at the tip of L’Île d’Offard, an island in the middle of the Loire overlooked by the Château de Saumur. Although the site was still rammed and the pitches were smaller than I would have liked, there was just about sufficient room for the erection of our home away from home. This pitch did have the disadvantage of being almost continuously in direct (hot) sunshine while our neighbours enjoyed lots of shade. However, it also had the distinct advantage of having its own shower, toilet and kitchen with a gas cooker and refrigerator. A “Premium” pitch to be sure.
Saumur is a really lovely little town.
In the midst of the Anjou vineyards, it is nicknamed the “Pearl of Anjou” with the magnificent turreted château overlooking the Loire Valley and old town stretching along the river.
A twenty-minute stroll across the bridge from the campsite takes you into the town where there were restaurants and quiet little alleys galore. Our first night we stumbled into the Teatro Divino, an excellent Italian restaurant just across the bridge where I had the best Carbonara I’ve had in a very long time! Come to France to enjoy Italian cuisine!
The next morning, we set off to the Château de Villandry, a few kilometres up the Loire, a lovely, leisurely drive through the vineyards and small farming hamlets. It was magnificent! The château itself is very impressive, overlooking the Loire from a dominant position above the town. But the gardens are simply stunning!
Although it was the last of the great Renaissance châteaus in the Loire Valley, the Château de Villandry is best-known for its magnificent gardens. In the early 20th century, when the château was abandoned and due to be demolished, Joachim Carvallo bought it and decided to create five French formal gardens in a Renaissance style.
The gardens were truly magnificent and Daisy was very appreciative of the many fountains. She drank from most and climbed into several to cool off. It was a very hot day.
The next morning we shook ourselves out of bed and headed off to visit Fontevraud Abbey, another lovely drive through the vineyards and another gloriously hot and sunny day.
While we were planning our trip, we looked for places we could visit which were dog friendly. There are a number of really good web sites and Facebook groups which provided some great ideas. Unfortunately, one of those sites (I can’t remember which) recommended Fontevraud Abbey which sadly turned out to be decidedly un-dog-friendly. No dogs allowed in the gardens at all, I’m afraid. Never mind, it was a lovely, picturesque little town and we did walk out to a “vantage point” overlooking the abbey which Daisy undoubtedly enjoyed more than being on the lead all the time anyway.
If we had been able to take Daisy into the Abbey gardens, we probably would not have had our chance encounter with the marvellously eccentric Mme Térésa who runs Chez Térésa just off the square. She’s an Englishwoman who came to live in Fontevraud 17 years previously and runs a café/tea shop and bed and breakfast offering “A Taste d’Angleterre.” We first bumped into her as we started out on our walk – she was just off to the post and heard us chatting and asked if we were English. We were, we conceded. As it happens, we had had been chatting about the “interesting” store front we were just passing and from which she emerged. We exchanged pleasantries and then went on our way. We then met her again as we returned from our walk. When she saw us coming up the road, she burst into song – We’ll Meet Again – and serenaded us as we approached. Wacky!
From Fontevraud we ventured up the road a bit to the Chevalerie de Sacé at Brain-sur-Allones – lovely and peaceful and it gave Daisy the opportunity to run through the woods. Just at the entrance to the site there were a number of wood carvings made from old tree trunks. From there one could choose any number of trails through the woods ranging from 0.4 km to 40 kms. Obviously, I voted for the 0.4 km option but was outvoted 2 to 1. Still, they didn’t go mad and we had a lovely off-lead stroll through the woods, both Daisy and me. At the end of it Daisy was exhausted and lay down in the shade under a picnic table. Meanwhile, I had a well-deserved snooze on the bench.
Another day, another château, this time the Château of Langeais. From one of the youngest chateaux to one of the oldest, rebuilt in the 15th century by King Louis XI. It’s certainly very impressive but the gardens and parkland are not a patch on Villandry. I think we were spoiled by going there first. There were the remains of an old castle keep as well as some authentic, medieval scaffolding (thankfully secured with large nuts and bolts for obvious health and safety reasons). Great views over the Loire and the pretty impressive Langeais Bridge. After wandering around the parkland and gardens Penny sprinted around the interior while Daisy and I cooled our heels in the courtyard. Afterwards we wandered around the streets and alleys of the town and ended up at La Conciergerie where I confidently asked for deux café au lait, s’il vous plaît. Madam looked me up and down and then, in an impressively condescendingly tone hissed, “Crème! Deux crème!” Who knew?
Another glorious drive home through the vineyards. We parked the van at the campsite, spruced ourselves up and wandered into town for a final drink and meal in Saumur. As always, Daisy was extraordinarily well-behaved and settled under the table quite contentedly while we enjoyed cocktails, starters, mains, dessert and wine. We stumbled back at sunset and, after showing a keen interest in a barge on the Loire, Daisy led us home.
Saumur is a lovely little town in a lovely area. One tip, visit Villandry last – it will blow your socks off.
The following morning we awakened to a wet campsite – it had rained in the night and was still spitting as we packed up. It was time to leave Saumur and the L’Île d’Offard and head up to Brittany to visit our lovely friend Jane.
To be continued . . .
It’s been wonderful having my youngest sister Sarah with us for a few days – not enough, as always. She had a little adventure of her own on her return from visiting her friend in Copenhagen. Because of the UK Air Traffic Control breakdown on Monday, her return flight was cancelled and she didn’t get back to the UK until the early hours of Wednesday morning by way of Munich. And, they lost her luggage.
The Moreton Pinkney Garden Club Annual Show was yesterday. Penelope entered about three hundred categories and I entered my usual Award-Winning Sourdough. The strategy I adopted all those years ago seems to still be working – enter the category that no one else enters!
And finally, Happy Birthday to my lovely brother Steph last Thursday and to my even lovelier mother who would have been 98 last Friday. Love you both.
Meanwhile, keep happy, keep smiling, be careful, wear a f**king facemask in crowded places and keep your distance. And keep safe. And be gentle to wasps and bees.
Lots of love to you all,
Greg